This spring’s chervil seed grew to big frothy plants in no time, then flamed out — hardly a chance to decide whether I liked the stuff. Just twice I harvested a handful and minced the delicate leaves into scrambled eggs, the second time gussied up with chopped smoked salmon, as per Jerry Traunfeld. Well. Jury was out on whether to grow this one again — it’s got a licorishy bite that didn’t do much for me, at least with eggs.

So the plants went to seed and dried up; I never got around to cleaning up after the party. And now thanks to last week’s hard rain, a new generation is up and growing in force.

In spite of their numbers I’m afraid these little guys won’t make adulthood before the cold, wet, and dark brings them down — but still. I can respect an edible that thrives in spite of, or perhaps thanks to, a bit of benign neglect. So if chervil wants to grow in our garden unprompted, okay. I’m thinking it won’t be too much of a stretch to find ways to cook with and enjoy it.

What are your favorite partners for chervil?