On offer at the farmers market today was pretty much every kind of vegetable that’s grown in Washington state, plus stuff like okra that isn’t quite native. Most of the farmers were selling cherry and beefsteak tomatoes, and I felt a secret thrill upon discovering Alvarez with a big spread of organic peppers. There were baby poblanos and adult Anaheims, and a number of varieties I didn’t recognize. “What do you have that’s hot?” I said. The farmer pointed me to a box of creamy skinned, squat peppers and smiled as I carefully picked out a few.

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