At the conclusion of our mostly-local meal, Stephen was all too happy to part with his salmon in trade for pork chops. The fish was a good deal for us, too, even if it’s so plentiful up north that this grade of stuff sometimes goes to the dogs. What they brought us was a glorious wild pink-orange color, with a lush taste. I had a field day thinking of how to use it all — there were the eggs scrambled with salmon pate (and sorrel puree on the side), the salmon cakes done with red curry. I saved the last of it for handmade ravioli but couldn’t make it happen, so I opted to freeze the last chunk. If only salmon were so plentiful here, I’d have happily left it to the dogs.

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