Oriental ribs are defrosting when I return from work. I can’t find a recipe for this cut in any of my two-dozen cookbooks, but it looks right for Korean barbeque, so I improvise an Asian marinade. After marinating at room temperature for an hour, the meat goes onto the grill for a quick flame. There’s a grease fire, the ribs char nicely, and the smell is heavenly. We serve with plain steamed rice and a fall salad from our garden, which includes the very last of the Sun Gold tomatoes. Charlie doesn’t like how gristly and chewy the ribs are against the bone; he carves out the steak-like sections and leaves a sizeable pile of scraps with rapidly congealing grease. I eat all of mine — I really like the flavor and texture — but might only be making the best of the situation. Still, we agree that the overall flavor of the ribs is terrific. It’s the same deep beefy flavor as the burgers.

Editorial note: I’ve done my homework. Oriental ribs are cross-cut short ribs; when cut into blocks, they’re called short ribs and they’re best cooked down in a braise. Sweet Grass Farm suggests that oriental-cut ribs marinate for 24 hours. A recipe in our grilling cookbook recommends the same, and on testing this concept, well, it works.

A basic Asian marinade for 1 lb oriental cut beef ribs: Thoroughly mix 3 tbl soy sauce; 2 tsp sugar; 1 tsp sesame oil; 1 stem green onions, minced; 1 clove garlic, minced; 2 tsp rice vinegar; and ground pepper to taste. Cover ribs thoroughly with marinade and refrigerate in mix for 24-48 hours. When ready to eat, warm ribs to room temperature then grill to desired doneness.